• Joseph Aguilar

ODST Helmet

Updated: Sep 21, 2020

Sometimes it pays to be the strong silent type

Major Features

Simple Two Piece Design

The helmet itself is comprise of a front and back piece. The back piece doesn't require supports while the front only supports internally meaning that you should have a nice smooth print on the outside. This of course always depends on your print settings, more than likely both pieces will still benefit from supports.

The model also contains two alignment pins that allow for easy alignment and glueing of the pieces together.

Visor Insert Features

The inside of the helmet features Guides to hold the visor in place. While the visor can sit on these alone I would recommend a low strength glue or tape to help fasten hit while still allowing you to remove the visor.

Sizing Ring

Model includes a sizing ring to help you scale the helmet to fit over your head. Sizing ring is a equal to the size of the throat of the helmet so make it so you can fit your whole head through without slicing your ears off.

Full Visor Resin Kit

This model includes a full kit to help you make a rubber mold capable of casting a resin visor. A resin visor in and of itself will have some reflective properties while more importantly allow you to make the visor see-through and a color of your choice. It also allows for more complex geometries than vacuum forming and makes for a sturdier visor. The visor, baseplate, and mold shell all fit together to ensure that the the model only requires a minimal amount of rubber. The less rubber required, the less it costs and the more reusable the mold and easier the demolding process. Model also features a mold stand so that you can ensure the mold can be filled to the top without deformation when you pour in the resin.

Visor Resin Volume: 91.7 mL

Visor Rubber Mold Volume: 391.3 mL

You can find a more detailed explanation of the resin casting process in my "Builds" section.


This is actually one of my oldest models. On the left you can see a helmet I made maybe 6 months ago. The visor was resin cast but it was done poorly so there were lots of bubbles, essentially making it useless as a visor. I also tried dyeing the visor afterwards rather than dyeing the resin itself which didn't really do much. Again, this was 6 months of resin casting experience ago.

On the right you can see a more recent build of the helmet. Obviously still unfinished, but it is slightly smaller than the one on the left and perfectly sized to my head. I also used this mainly as a test bed for the resin casting of the visor. I am very excited to finish the one on right using everything I've learned over the past couple of months of prop building. Similarly, I also used a special version of the model that includes inserts from old speakers I had lying around. This will allow me to plug any 3.5mm or 2.5mm jack into the helmet for playing sound.

As with all my resin kits, you can see that it features the visor plug, a baseplate and the outer shell. All off this was glued together using PVC cement and attached to a flat piece of cardboard from an old pizza box. All the way on the right you can see I have poured all the liquid rubber in and finalizing the mold.

Here we can see my set up for resin casting. I've got my resin, resin dye, mold setup, and some old molds for incase I had a lot of resin left over. You can see the mold stand and mold shell in use on the right to ensure the mold doesn't deform and that the resin doesn't tip out. You can see just how little resin is required even when accounting for mistakes which I added a large margin for error for reason you'll see later on, payed off. Also it's worth noting look how large the blue mold is. This is the mold for a tiny bulbasaur. Notice just how much waste rubber is used. This was before I started to design my own resin castings with custom mold shells to reduce waste rubber/cost.

This was the first project I ever used my vacuum chamber/vacuum pump for. As a result, I messed up by pouring the resin in first, then trying to degas it. This resulted in all the bubbles pushing out almost half the resin and overflowing into the chamber. Luckily I had prepared for some sort of mishap and had some excess in the cup which properly degassed and I was able to pout back into the mold.

Moral of the story, degas your resin before you pour it into the mold.

Here's a quick POV shot showing the clarity and a truer representation of the color of the visor (my phone camera really darkens the shade in other pictures)

Overall, really fun prints and I hope to return to this soon.

What Next?

If you are looking to create you own models like this one feel free to checkout all of my tutorials on 3D modeling and prop making techniques.

If you are looking to purchase the model so that you can print your own you can find it in the store.

Lastly, make sure to check back in every once in a while to see what I've been working on

Thank you for your time