Usually when slicing any of my models into their printable pieces, I try to avoid visible seams, but in the event of large "singular" pieces like the blades of swords, this is unavoidable. For this piece, I sliced it in half and added the addition of an alignment peg to the bottom half. This bottom half also slides into the hilt itself. All of the battle damage seen in the show is faithfully recreated and the sword itself is proportionally correct as well.
Another important feature that I added to the model set, is the blade tip guard. This tip guard fits over the end of the sword so that when glueing the prop together, you can clamp the two ends of the sword together firmly without risking damage to the blade tip.
The hill of the sword is one singular piece to cut down on assembly later on and to lower complexity. The shapes are simple enough that printing it as one piece did not make the sanding and painting any more complicated.
MAJOR RECOMMENDATION: When printing the Hilt, I highly using at least 20% infill. At lower infills and with certain infill patterns, there can be major stress concentrations on the top of the handle/bottom of the hilt. This could mean that if someone pulls on the end of the sword or there is any bend applied to the sword it is most likely to break in this location unless a higher infill is used.
Resin Jewel Kit
Included in the model set is a small "cup" that can fit the jewel and that can be used to pour in your molding medium. I include these custom mold shells in models that include parts that would look better as a resin cast as a way of allowing for a much easier and cheaper molding process.
Knowing the exact volume, it takes approximately 30mL of Rubber to create the mold and 30 mL of Resin to produce the Jewel. This is essentially the size of the cups that come with cold medicine. This cuts way down on material if you were to try and eyeball a mold out of foam and hot glue, and therefore cuts way down on cost, especially since that casting Rubber can get real expensive.
Minimalist Wall Mount
Some wall mounts were included in the model as well and were designed to accommodate small drywall screws. While the photo above shows the peg mount on the far notch of the sword, I would recommend mounting it to align with the notch of the sword closer to the hilt.
If you would like to download demo versions of any of my models, you can find them here
You can read more about this model and my experience building it here.
All my models are designed with a focus on hidden seams, ease of assembly, little to no support printing, and accuracy in mind.
If you need any help with the printing or building process, or you just have a prop you would like to see me do, feel free to email me.
Scarlett - Finn's Sword
None of my models may be resold as digital files or physical recreations/prints. If you would like to sell casts/reproductions/modifications of my models, contact me and we can discuss a partnership.